I wanted to install my subwoofer into my 2006 Suzuki Swift but it has quite a clean dashboard with no obvious signs of how to remove the stereo.
I tried having a look on the Internet but there was no useful guides available, so I figured it out and took photos along the way to show you how to remove the CD player yourself, without problems.
If you want to see something closer, just click on the photo and view it full size.
The first step is to open the glove box. It has two rubber stoppers on each side which keep the glove box only a few inches open. You need to push those towards eachother so that the glove box can open all the way and hang down towards the floor.
Once all the way open, simply unclip the hinges at the base and put the glove compartment somewhere safe. Easy so far, right?
With the glove box completely removed, you now have reasonably easy access to a bolt that holds the stereo in place. It is circled in the above picture. Undo it with either a large philips screwdriver, or a 10 mm spanner.
Now move over to the driver’s side, and remove the plastic panel below the steering wheel. It uses no screws, only clips, so it’s quick and easy to remove. Just pull it towards the driver’s seat and it will pop out.
With the plastic panel removed, you now have (well, sort of) access to the another bolt on the other side of the radio head unit which is circled in the above photo.
It’s quite a hassle to get to this bolt, so just take your time and undo it one turn at a time. It helps if you’re nimble and thin. If not, then you get a free body workout reaching the darn thing.
With the two bolts undone, there’s only a series of clips holding the stereo unit in place. Take a thin flat-head screwdriver and pry the unit out from underneath. It will seem like there’s still something holding it in, but don’t worry, it will come out if you work your way around the edges prying it out.
As you can see in the above photo, there are 3 clips on the top of the unit, and a clip on each side too. There is enough cable for the stereo to come out, however it’s often bundled up in a loop with a white zip-tie. Release or cut this zip tie through the glove box space and you’ll instantly have another foot of cable length.
Looking at the back of the stereo shows a fair amount of empty space in there, despite the large double-din sized front.
This is the plug which goes into the back of the head unit. The socket next to it is unused and I’m not sure what it’s for. As for the four pairs of twisted wires in the photo above, each pair goes directly to each speaker. I worked out the colour code for you:
PINK + BLUE = LEFT-FRONT
YELLOW WITH BLACK STRIPE + YELLOW WITH RED STRIPE = RIGHT-FRONT
GREEN + GREEN WITH BLACK STRIPE = LEFT-REAR
GREY + GREY WITH RED STRIPE = RIGHT-REAR
The remaining wires were much harder to figure out. Some were always powered up when the stereo was going, others seemed to do nothing. Here’s what I could figure out:
WHITE WITH RED STRIPE = 12 VOLTS (always on)
BLACK = EARTH
RED WITH YELLOW STRIPE = PARK LIGHTS / HEADLIGHTS
YELLOW = PARK LIGHTS / HEADLIGHTS DIM (has 12 volts only when Illumination Cancel button is pressed, to keep the dashboard lights at full brightness)
GREEN = REPLAY TRACK / PREVIOUS TRACK
PURPLE = UNKNOWN (maybe steering wheel controls)
BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE = UNKNOWN (no power detected at any time)
BLUE WITH WHITE STRIPE = UNKNOWN (always seems to have 12 volt power)
If you have more luck, please leave some information in the comments. I expect the other cables are connected to the steering wheel mounted controls.
I ran the cabling for the subwoofer underneath the plastic panels which clip on top of the sills of the car, down the driver’s side. I tapped into the main power input in the driver’s footwell and used a 10 amp fuse. The subwoofer is a little bigger than what I need (I have it turned down to minimum!)
If you’re also installing an amplifier and subwoofer in your car, then I strongly recommend installing some kind of sockets in the back. This makes it super fast and easy to remove the subwoofer if you need to haul something in the back. Then when you’re done, it takes less than 5 seconds to put the speaker unit back in place and connect it up. No more unscrewing and de-wiring every time you want to use the boot / trunk.
Consider installing a plug yourself if you’re planning on putting a sub/amp in the back of the car. It takes a bit longer to make the plug (I used the lid from a black can of spray-paint) but the end result is something to be proud of. It’s also a real time saver when you have to pick up something and need to move the speaker box out unexpectedly!
The 3-pin plug and socket is called an XLR 3 (they also come in other pin configurations such as 5, and 7). The pins in the plug are:
1: Higher amperage constant 12 volts (I used a thicker 1mm² cable).
2: Accessories power (when the key is turned, the amplifier receives a signal through this wire and switches on).
3: Earth (wired securely to a nearby bolt, using a larger cable (same size as the higher amperage constant wire).
The 3.5 millimetre headphone jack is cabled to one of the rear door speakers. It taps into the existing left-rear door speaker wire. This means the amplifier only receives the left audio channel, but for bass this is not normally a problem.
While I had the stereo out I also decided to pre-wire some cabling for my box of tricks. It should allow my car to have a spoken audio warning when I drive somewhere without my headlights on (which is illegal in Slovakia). The box of tricks also has a Raspberry Pi installed, and will have GPS tracking. You’ll have to wait and see for that one however…
I hope this guide helps you in some way. Please feel free to share these photos if you wish.